tonymorel: (Default)
Due to the high winds, my original plan was scuppered, so I left The Pouty Rock™ and scampered across to The Roaches to meet up with the regular crew who had rented the Don Whillans memorial hut (which we'd seen the other year when walking with Lin/Leo/Steph

The day was mostly allocated to getting the leaders back into shape (both mentally and physically) after some nasty falls of late.
As such, my two climbs were below the grade I climbed last time, although I still managed to faff and flail around, but as I had such a great time I didn't mind too much.

We were based in Tower Buttress on Skyline. First up was Bad Poynt, a slab and crack route led by Jezza.
After that was Square Chimney with Woodie leading.

Some pics are here, and I think Hamish took some actions shots of me so I'll have to track them down.

The weather was amazing all day, apart from when we topped out at which point you were hit by strong winds - I was actually blown over twice which is worrying when standing on a ledge *g*

Best of all, apart from a badly twisted ankle and some cuts and bruises, I escaped completely unharmed for once :)
Now, if I could get rid of the knots in my neck and shoulders I'd be a happy little bunny
tonymorel: (Kilimanjaro)
Well then, a most successful weekend.

The main event was a trip to Crows Chin at Stanage.

The route I managed to second was Kelly's crack (sorry Pooka but the jokes were just too good to resist)
You can see it to the right of center.
It's only a baby, but even so, those rocks at the bottom are pretty nasty when you're 30ft up.
Sadly all hopes and dreams of some elegant mantle attempt at the top went out the window. I did my best impression of a whale, and flopped out.
None of that mattered though, I'd got up a V'Diff and that's all that I was bothered about.

This morning I was really suffering though. I went for a gentle hike but it took me over four and a half hours just to do 25km so I decided to knock it on the head and come home.

Am still really pleased about the climb.



For anyone wondering, it's traditional climbing that I'm learning.
The route is unbolted, the leader climbs first, and puts in temporary protection (hex's or camming devices etc) threading a rope though the pro as they climb. The rope is being managed by the second at the bottom (that'd be me then) ensuring that the rope is under control and if the lead falls then I've got to hold them. Once the lead is at the top, they'll make an anchor and we swap roles, they'll manage the rope while the second climbs up and removes the equipment that had been placed - leaving the rockface undamaged and ready for the next team.
In the UK bolting the route is generally frowned upon, but I'm looking into doing a few Via Ferrata routes in mainland Europe which have some amazing views. These are bolted and prewired - you just clip on and climb.

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Tony Morel

February 2011

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